Saturday, May 23, 2009

Delayed Entry Today - Canyon De Chelly

The signal I was getting at best was weak. It is also a weird one. My reception menu read it was a global signal and it may cost me as much as $24.00 per megabyte usage! I checked my aircard plan and didn't see anything regarding a global connect. I played it safe and opted not to use the Internet until I got someplace where my signal was something I was used to.

That's the reason for the late update on or remaining time at Canyon De Chelly (pronounce d'shay).

Our Navajo guide for the day, Ron Smith.

I was running late for the 52 mile guided tour we were to take of the canyon. I was publishing the last post and, of course, everything slowed way down. I had to run to the lodge next to the campground to where the 'bus' was loading and to the pay the fee at the gift store. I made it. Cathy was waiting and wondering if I would get there or not.

Our Tour Bus

The tour would take us through the two canyons that make up the park; Canyon Del Muerto and Canyon De Chelly. They offer a half day tour and a full day tour. We chose the full day, 8 1/2 hour, tour at $81.47. It was to be a cloudy day today, with a forecast of 40% chance of thundershowers.

Entrance into the canyon

We hopped into the back of the truck. It was a converted 1952, Korean War era, troop transport. All six wheels are drive wheels. We found out later in the day, all six of them were needed. The roads through the canyon follow the streams that eroded the rock to form them. Sometimes the road was the stream.


The canyon was, and still is, occupied and farmed. There is evidence of ancient people all over the place.

If you like red rocks, you'll love this park. There is no electricity to the farms here. Water is pumped from the ground. The houses are small, one or two rooms, and most of them were the hogan style made from logs. We weren't allowed to photo the houses or the people without their permission.

The First Ruin.

Junction Ruins. Located near the junction of the two canyons.

We quickly came to the first ruin in the canyon. It was excavated in 1880 and was the first one to be studied. Its name is "The First Ruin". All of the ruins here were built by the Anasazi and were all occupied at the same time. The Navajo never used them.

Petrographs depicting Spaniards.

The first whites in the canyon were the Spanish. They were here looking for the lost city of gold. The Navajo were here then and many were killed by the Spaniards. There are some petrographs on canyon walls showing Conquistadors.

Antelope Ruins. Located on the floor of the canyon and is thought to be a meeting place for ceremonies.

Antelope glyphs near Antelope Ruin. The white were placed by the Anasazi. The brown were placed by the Navajo in 1864.

The cavalry were here too. Many Navajo were wiped out before they were forced to a reservation in New Mexico. In all, the Navajo signed seventeen treaties with the US before the US honored the last one. The Navajo returned after 15 years to try to remake a living in the canyon. Many starved in the early going before they began to call this canyon home once again.

The highlight for me and Cathy was the ruins farthest up the canyon in Canyon Del Mourte (Canyon of the Dead). It is the best preserved ruin and looks as thought the Anasazi left it only yesterday.

Mummy Cave Ruins.

The wood floor and ceiling beams are still intact. You can see the ancient plaster applied to the cave wall behind the ruin.

There are ruins of granaries scattered all over the walls of the canyons. Some of them are so high up on the wall, the only way to get to them would be to come down from the top. There are several ancient trails that lead to the top from the floor. They are a little different than tradition trails. They are handholds and footholds that were pecked into the almost vertical walls.

Window Rock.

Ron, or guide, told us of a time when he brought a tour into the back reaches of the canyon and they could see a youngster about 600 feet from the floor climbing to the top via one of these trails. He was carrying a basket of peaches he picked in the canyon.

Spider Rock.

The lore of the Navajo has it that an old lady lived under the tall rock spire in the canyon. She was the weaver and taught all the women how to weave. Her loom looked like a spider web and she was referred to as the Spider Woman. The spire she lived under came to be known as Spider Rock.

One of our rest stops. That's Cathy far left.

I initially thought the price for the tour was much too high. I have to now say it was worth every penny. We met a couple who were taking their fourth trip and will do it again. It is two thumbs up from Cathy and me. Don't miss it if your here.

The weather cooperated up until Spider Rock. Luckily it was the last scheduled stop on the tour before we were to head back. It rained sporadically from there on. Ron handed out military rubber ponchos to us. Cathy and I used ours as a blanket to keep warm and fend off the rain.

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